I’m sure my old fourth-grade school teach would be appalled if she saw I had spelled “wire†as “wor.†Yes, I do know better, but that’s pretty much how it’s pronounced in these parts.
The real problem is that it’s not easy to find real baling wire any more, but I’m not really so broken up about that. What I have found is that a roll of galvanized electric fence wire is a lot handier, and it doesn’t rust, to boot. You can peel off just as much as you want, and you don’t have to splice pieces together to get a long one. You can keep a roll of it in the trunk of your car and it doesn’t get all tangled up with your jumper cables and whatever else you keep back there, and you don’t need fence pliers to cut it—a medium pair of dikes or side cutters will do nicely.
The uses for this wire are endless. A small piece can substitute for a lost cotter pin, prevent an old trailer hitch turn knob from turning, and keep your trailer safety chains from dragging the ground.  There are different gauges, but most all of them are pretty strong. Use it to hold up a section of picket fence a recent gust front has knocked down (just until you can make permanent repairs, of course), rig a quick clothes line, or use it as it was intended, that is, to keep livestock contained. You’ll need the device that generates the intermittant voltage if you’re going to do that, though.Â
If you need to glue a picture frame, you can put blocks of wood near each corner, lay a length of wire around the whole thing, then use a stick to twist the ends of the wire until it’s tight enough to hold the frame while the glue dries—assuming you remembered to put the glue on the corners first. The wire squeezes the blocks, and the blocks squeeze the frame, so the blocks get the wire marks and not the frame. Just don’t get glue on your blocks or they’ll be stuck to your frame.
